The Toddlerized BSJ

I wanted to knit another Baby Surprise Jacket but didn’t have an actual baby around to make it for.  So instead, I toddlerized that sucker for Maggie!

toddlerized bsj

Following is an in-depth look at how I did it and everything you need to know to make one, too.

Things You Should Know

  • You must have a copy of the pattern to follow along.  The Baby Surprise Jacket is available in The Opinionated Knitter, Knitting Workshop, a couple of back issues of Knitter’s and as a $3 single pattern leaflet from Schoolhouse Press.  You have no reason not to own your own copy. [Ravelry]
  • It would be very helpful if you have already knit a regular BSJ without modifications.
  • I have a hunch that two- and three-year-olds have the same chest circumference as sweet little infant babies.  Mine did, maybe yours do, too.  That’s good here because then the key numbers in the pattern don’t change.
  • Like EZ says, slip the first stitch of every row.  I do it knit-wise, though I have never been quite sure this was correct.
  • I eliminated the sleeve increases, and instead began with 18 additional stitches when I cast on.  This is explained briefly in The Opinionated Knitter on page 106.
  • Overall there are very few changes to the original pattern, but the little tweaks I’ll discuss below make all the difference in the toddlerization process.  Keep your headlights on.
  • Gauge: 19 sts = 4″ over garter stitch.  With the sport weight yarn I used [Hello Yarn Fat Sock, Marzipan, 2 skeins] this gauge produces a stretcy, loose and nearly lightweight material.

Ready?

Change #1 Provisionally cast on the specified number of stitches using a smooth yarn.  I did this by casting on (long tail, as usual) with cotton yarn, knitting a row, then joining in the sweater yarn and starting immediately with row 1 of the pattern.  Cotton is important for the cast-on if you’re using wool for the sweater, so that the provisional stitches are easier to free later on.

bsj

Solid green yarn above is the provisional cast-on.

Now knit the pattern as normal, through decreases and increases until you get to the point in the pattern that says “…work on center 90 sts. only, for 10 ridges…”

Change #2 This section of the pattern determines body length and for a toddler you’ll want it a bit longer.  I knit the center section for 14 ridges.

After picking up stitches along the edges of the section just completed continue again as written except for:

Change #3 Make the sweater slightly wider by knitting more ridges before the buttonholes.  I did nine ridges before the buttonholes and two after.  NB: I only made buttonholes on one side, but that is neither here nor there, and makes very little difference in the end.

Now for the fun part.  Or the tedious part, if that’s how you wish to look at it.  I thought of it as fun because without all the tedium you just have a pile of knitted garter stitch that doesn’t look like anything.  Although come to think of it that doesn’t sound too bad.  Moving on.

The order of things to follow, in brief.

  • Cast off live stitches.
  • Put all provisionally cast on stitches on threads until you are ready to knit them.
  • Lengthen sleeves.
  • Join tops of sleeves to back and seam.  Simultaneously.
  • Bind off remaining stitches.

Here’s how I did it.

From the right side, and using a needle one size smaller than you used for the body, cast off using the i-cord cast-off method using three stitches (I used the one described on pg. 55 of The Opinionated Knitter).  Begin at the neck edge, continue down the front edge, around the back bottom edge, up the opposite edge, around the neck to where the sleeve joins the back.  Here, I’ll show you.

The star shows where to begin and the arrow shows the direction of the knitting (not that I needed to explain that to you, smart knitter that you are).  When you get to the end, leave the last three i-cord stitches on a holder.  Like this (except put them on an actual holder, not a needle, because the needle will indubitably fall out).

top of sleeve

Now the time has come to liberate those cast-on stitches from so long ago.  Put the stitches from both ends of the cast-on row — the stitches before the first line of decreases and after the second line of decreases — onto separate holders.  That is where you’ll lengthen the sleeves.  The center stitches go on their own holder.

To lengthen the sleeve, join in the yarn on one end section and knit back and forth until the sleeve is the desired length.  I added thirteen ridges and probably could have done a few more.  Do not bind off.  Repeat on the other sleeve.

toddlerized bsj

Oh, please don’t look so confused.  We’re getting there now.

You are ready to join the top of the sleeve to the back using a three-needle i-cord cast-off.  Count the number of stitches on the sleeve top (excluding cuff), then put a matching number of back stitches on a needle ready to join.  Begin at the star…

…and perform the magical trick known as the three-needle i-cord cast-off down the top edge until you reach the cuff.  Go back to regular i-cording around the cuff edge until all the stitches are cast-off.  Finish off the i-cord then sew it neatly where it meets the corner.  So far so good.

toddlerized bsj

How beautiful is that seam?  And no sewing needle required!

But back to business.  Do the same for the second sleeve, but this time start at the cuff, i-cord cast-off around, then join the top sleeve stitches to an equal number of back stitches with the the three-needle i-cord cast-off.    You will also i-cord around the second half of the neck to join up with the beginning of these i-cord escapades. Thusly:

We’re nearly there now.  All that’s left to i-cord is the remaining live stitches at the back of the neck.

Ta-da!

Some Other Notes

  • When you i-cord cast-off around an outside corner, add a row of i-cord that doesn’t connect.  This helps keeps those corners neat and square.
  • If you have remembered to slip the first stitch of each row, it will be so much easier to do all the i-cording.  If you have forgotten, well there’s not much to do.  Use a tiny needle to pick up the stitches, maybe?  That might work.  Try not to forget the slipping.

I had such fun making this sweater and wrestling with the finishing details.  Please enjoy this little unvention of mine and let me know if you try it, have any trouble with the instructions or have any suggestions.  I bet if you toddlerize your own BSJ, you’ll probably do some unventing of your own along the way.  Yippee!

toddlerized bsj

One last picture for good measure.
OH!  I almost forgot.  There’s one little “mistake” that I know you won’t believe me when I say I did it on purpose.  I did.  If you find the mistake you may award yourself 15 Cool Points.  Good luck.

I’ll show you mine

What they’ve been saying? About wips? It’s true here! I hardly talk about what I’m working on. So let us change that for today.

My current big project is a sweater for me. I have completely given up on the sweater for my sister (sorry, Hols!). Not to say I won’t ever knit her one…it’s just not happening now. Besides, she’s back in the knitting business (Ravelry username: SpothKnits) so she can knit her own darn sweater.

The pattern I’m using is from, of course, an EZ book: Knitting Workshop.

i hate wip pictures

Specifically, I’m using the chart for the ‘Faded Aspen-Leaf Sweater.’ In the book, it looks like this:

shaded aspen leaf sweater

Is that EZ’s actual hand up in the corner? Sweetness.

Anyway, besides using the aspen-leaf chart from the book, the sweater is hardly going to be the same. First, I’m going to can the drop-shoulder construction in favor of raglan shaping. A better fit, I hope. Also, it will be a cardigan so steek stitches are in the works.

It’s a big project. It’s gonna take me a while. So instead of focusing on how daunting a project it is, my goal with this thing has been to knit on it every day. It’s amazing how fast things can be knit when you actually knit them, rather than just imagining yourself knitting them. Crazy.

faded aspen leaf progress

I just measured my progress, and I’ve got 9″ of body.  Hells yea!

p.s.  I just noticed that my pattern is quite different from the picture in the book.  Odd.
p.p.s.  The yarn is Cascade 220.
p.p.p.s.  Just kidding.  There’s no p.p.p.s.  I just felt like typing p.p.p.s.

pair of squares and a PSA

pair of hats

This is the fastest hat to make EVER. So I made two.

Pattern: Center Square from knitty.com.
Yarn: Worsted weight wool, held double. I used up some Cascade 220, some Patons Classic Merino, and some Nature Spun Worsted.
Neeldes: US 10.5, 16″ bamboo circular.
Start – Finish: Nov. 4 – Nov. 7 for the pair.
For: A pair of secret recipients.

What am I knitting next? I can’t decide, and swatching doesn’t seem to help. I’ll probably end up making more hats. Here’s what I have going.

SIWASH

Swatch for a Norse Sweater or SIWASH Sweater (same diff) for Jerry. The pattern is from The Opinionated Knitter, and it’s a drop should sweater. I don’t like the light blue, and if I go ahead with this I’ll use cream in place of it – closer to what is in the book. Part of the problem with this is that I don’t think I have enough yarn. That is always the problem with me.

swatch

I want to make Jerry a cabley vest, and this chunky wool was on super-sale at the yarn store. It’s Debbie Bliss Donegal Chunky Tweed. The swatch pictured is the fourth swatch I’ve made. I just can’t seem to pull all the pieces of the puzzle together, but I really want him to have a vest.

more reclaimed yarn

This is a bunch of wool from a sweater I got at the thrift store a long time ago. The sweater was a large men’s J.Crew raglan with a “hand knit” label. The yarn is bulky, but it’s actually just three strands held together, not spun together. This yarn screams garter stitch.

Have I told you how much I like unraveling wool sweaters from the thrift store? I really really love it. Don’t know why. Here’s two, though, that I haven’t been willing to unravel yet.

Made Especially for You

DSC01814

Public Service Announcement:
Go to your local thrift store today and rescue the hand knits!